My first winter experience in this region was in 2013. That time, although I succeeded in some first climbs, most of the time trying to climb was impossible. Cold weather, you know, is not only related to temperature, but depends a lot on two factors: humidity and wind. Temperatures at the base of the mountains were constantly at -20°C, and because of the tense wind and high humidity, the perceived temperature easily reached -30/-35°C. Under those conditions, the only options were skiing or ice climbing. This year, on the other hand, when with Martin Castrillo we arrived at the base of Aguja de la S (which the two managed to climb all the way to the top, accomplishing a probable winter first, ed.), even though the thermometer oscillated between -10° and -15°, the situation was different, given the complete absence of wind. Sure, you couldn't get your climbing shoes on and you could only remove your gloves in the more technical sections, but I might go out of my way to say that it was fine.
The wind, however, when compared to early spring is definitely less violent and less present.
Ski touring, ice climbing or mountaineering? What do you think is better to do and why?
Mountaineering and ski mountaineering. Because, if by ice we mean ice falls, to have a good experience of this kind I would say it is best to travel to North America. In and around El Chalten the most beautiful ice and mixed climbs are what you find in the mountains.
Ski mountaineering, on the other hand, offers many possibilities. Thanks to the presence of many yet-to-be-discovered routes, one can experience real adventures: the possibilities far exceed expectations.
Did you have goals or did you let yourself be carried away by the feelings of the moment? Why do you keep coming back to Patagonia?
I did have goals, but as soon as I arrived I had to adapt to the conditions of the mountains and the weather. In some ways I experienced the same moods as in 2013: I left convinced I could succeed in very ambitious projects, but then, on the ground, I had to play a different game. The cold, snow and bad weather scaled back all my plans. Yet, although it is strange to say, it is precisely because of these additional difficulties that I decided to travel to Patagonia again. The pleasure of being alone in areas where, in summer, you would find camps overflowing with people and multiple ropes that may be engaged on the same mountain is priceless. Winter still offers the sensations and moods experienced by the pioneers and, personally, those emotions felt during the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Cerro Piergiorgio.
You went off on your own: what ideas did you have in your head? What to do and with whom?
I always have one or two solo routes in mind, projects that I guard more out of superstition than out of fear that someone will complete them before me. At the same time I seriously consider attempting some first winter ascents also roped up. For this reason, before leaving I heard from Martin Castrillo again this year. Without Martin I most likely would not have brought home any results.
What emotions do you look for in such a place?
I look for archaic states of mind such as solitude and situations of confrontation between human beings and nature. That help me to live an experience where, at the center, it is the emotions that give more or less value to my travels and climbs. The mountains and mountaineering are a means to grow and understand something more about ourselves and not a competition of who will finish first.
What happens in El Chalten in winter?
Winter is the time of tourist hibernation and for this reason a source of opportunities to establish true and deep friendships with people who, over time, have decided to move to a country that only a few years ago did not exist. I have always looked at El Chalten as a community of nomads who have found firm dwellings where, to borrow Faber's words, “the heart slows down and the head walks.”
Have you ever felt in the wrong place at the wrong time?
Many times, however, never in the mountains. Never in Patagonia.
What advice would you give to a mountaineer who wants to go to Patagonia in winter, either by choice or perhaps because he can only take a month in August/September?
I would advise him to rent a pickup truck, fill the trunk with skis and mountaineering gear, a tent and a feather bag, and let the wind of emotions carry him. Few definite ideas except to live....
Are there good reasons, in your opinion, for hikers who want to go to Patagonia to go there in winter? Or are the treks not minimally passable?
Most treks can be done in winter and without skis. At lower elevations, snow often comes in and allows walking with a regular hiking boot. A sunrise walk at the Torre Lagoon, with the full moon dipping behind Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, in itself is worth a winter vacation in Patagonia.